In 2006, my cousin Dipen & I were visiting Mumbai from our hometown Ahmedabad. We were visiting my sister Hirva who was studying Hotel Management at the Institute of Hotel Management in the Dadar area of Mumbai. And we also wanted to do some touristy things in the city. Dipen and I took a bus from the Goregaon area where we were staying at my relative’s house to get to the Hotel Management Institute in Dadar. It is important to mention here that I had grown my hair long then and that day it was tied up in a pony tail. Moreover, I was clean-shaven on that day.
My cousin Dipen and I got on the bus that would take us to Dadar area after consulting my sister for directions. The third row in the front of the bus had two empty seats. So we went and sat there. I was sitting in the window seat. I had recently finished reading Suketu Mehta’s narrative non-fiction account of Mumbai called Maximum City. The phrase ‘Maximum City’ had become a buzz word in the Indian media after the release of the book. And in the long ride I kept dreaming of Mumbai inspired by the book I had read while the ‘real’ Mumbai was passing me by.
I looked at the back of the bus where my cousin was sitting and was filled with such pride: ‘Wow, my cousin is such a gentleman. He gave up his seat for a lady.’
After the first few minutes, when I looked to my right, I discovered that my cousin was replaced by a woman. I looked at the back of the bus where my cousin was sitting and was filled with such pride: ‘Wow, my cousin is such a gentleman. He gave up his seat for a lady.’
A few more minutes passed by and that lady left. The seat next to me was empty again. I thumped on the empty seat, insisting that my cousin (who was now sitting at one of the very last seats towards the end of the bus) join me again but he vigorously nodded his head in denial. Once again I signalled my insistence that he join me by thumping on the empty seat, and once again he vigorously nodded his head in denial; leaving me mystified as to why he wouldn’t come back to the front of the bus and occupy the precious empty seat next to me which I was trying to save for him.
After a few more stops, two young women came in the bus. There was an empty seat in front of me and one empty seat next to me. One girl took the seat in front of me but the other girl did not sit in the empty seat next to me. She kept standing. Her friend insisted that she sit on the empty seat behind her which was next to me. But the other girl took a quick second look in my direction and decided that it was better for her to stand.
I was not just star-struck by the city at large; I was also star-struck by small details like these squiggles in Marathi on top of the windows.
After a few more stops both these young women left and an older woman came and sat next to me. She seemed quite friendly and we struck-up a conversation. It was the usual chit-chat about Mumbai and my fascination for the city which was partly derived from the book I had read on Mumbai. After there was a break in the conversation, my eyes turned towards these squiggles on top of the window. There were those same squiggles in Marathi on all the windows in the front part of the bus. I was not just star-struck by the city at large; I was also star-struck by small details like these squiggles in Marathi on top of the windows.
I asked the lady next to me, “Can you read Marathi? Do you know what these words mean?” She said, “Yes. These two words are Striyan Sathi which means ‘Women’s Seat’”. I suddenly realized why the young girl earlier had decided not to sit next to me. The combination of a long-haired, pony-tailed, clean shaven mammal in a woman’s seat had probably confused her about my gender. She probably couldn’t decide whether I was a man or a woman. That’s why she exercised caution by not sitting next to me.
I said to the amusement and laughter of the lady next to me, “O my God, now I realise why that girl didn’t sit next to me. I am so sorry!” I collected my bag and stood-up for the rest of the journey. Later my cousin shared the anti-climax of what I thought and what actually happened to him. He said that he had not given up his seat voluntarily to the lady like a gentleman. An authoritative looking Marathi lady had tapped him on the shoulder, showed him the sign above the window and that’s why he had to leave the seat!!! He too didn’t read Marathi but being a more seasoned bus traveller he knew what was being demanded of him and quietly obliged.
After that incident, the words Striyan Sathi became a code word for my cousin and I to erupt into laughter!